View Full Version : Projekt Integra
xamraci
02-19-2004, 04:49 PM
I am hoping to have purchased a 1990-1992 LS integra coupe soon.
Plan includes:
Completely Stripped(interior, ac, stereo, everything)
Rhino Lined floor
Plexy panels to replace existing Door panels
Kirkey Seats
Roll Cage
4pt harness passenger and driver
15" Rota Slipstreams
Falken azena rubber
Hoping to Find GSR(b17a1) motor for that gen(extremely rare though)
if not just get a b18a1 from 92 teg
Will post more when ideas appear
Thought or opinions would be helpful too
why rhino line the floor?
wtf is a plexi panel?
WiggiE
02-19-2004, 05:28 PM
why rhino line the floor?
wtf is a plexi panel?
fawk rhino lining....too much weight.....
plexi panel....is plexiglass....i would assume
xamraci
02-19-2004, 05:41 PM
why rhino line the floor?
wtf is a plexi panel?
something of a rubber consistancy to coat the floor...like rhino lining...it will have no carpet...it was the only thought i have had on what to coat the floor with(didnt think rhino was that heavy, but if it is...not gonna do it)
and plexi panel would be pieces of plexi glass(1/8") (NOT clear)...to cover the skeleton of the door that will remain
This whole idea is in the planning stages...it will have no exhaust and just header...intake...nothing really fancy...when money comes...new parts would be added as desired or needed
Good suspension sugestions would help too
AadosX
02-19-2004, 05:47 PM
Any cheapo springs/shock combo will do you fine... $500 and install yourself. Why are you rhyno lining... it's just weight for no reason.
Either way I suggest you do an S13. I might kinda sorta know of a good place to get one in decent condition. The SR, if you wanna go that route, is only like $2500, and you BETTER install it yourself.
RWD owns.
plexi panel - weight ~3lb
stock door panel - weight ~5lb
stock carpet ~15lb
rhino lining ~20lb
total weight savings: -1lb, on the bright side your doors will look gay and your carpet will look like petrified fecal matter.
cheappower82
02-19-2004, 07:57 PM
Lexan is a better sub for plexiglass; it's lighter, can be bent to shape, and doesn't crack/craze easily. Wouldn't waste it on the doors, but it would do nicely to replace that heavy glass
replacing the glass would make sense b/c glass is heavy as balls. Ive never heard of a 'satisfied customer' whos got lexan windows though. Not for a daily driver from what I understand
Frosty_DUB
02-19-2004, 08:53 PM
kirkey racing seats are GAY AS SHIT!! THey look like shit and are just aluminum with some nylon covering. F that! Get some sparcos or just keep the stockers. Leave those for the nasscar drivers.
Get kyb agx shocks if you are price consious. Dont do anything to the door panels, just take them off.
Dont do rhino lining either. thats gay. whats the point of even taking the carpet out if youre just gonna add weight back? Take everything out and paint it the same color as the body of the car. That would look nice.
DA integras are heavy anyway. Get a crx or something. Look at Brocks beater ( hatch not a crx), it runs 15.5 with no mods, and the stock sohc si motor!
Dont get slipstreams either. everyone and their grandma has them on their cars. Get some of the rota Grids ( te37 copy) or rota gram light copies.
EDIT: hondas are gay, get something rwd.
xamraci
02-19-2004, 10:30 PM
haha...I am hell bent on this teg...I have considered a bunch of options but I keep leaning towards this teg. I could do lexan on the windows and the plexi was just a cool thing for the doors...considering they will have no motors or anything left in them. they windows will be pinned up and the stock door handles would be re-used.
I could strip it down and leave out the carpet. Its not going to be daily driven...just a fun car to have around and spend some money on instead of risking certain injury to my DD(accord)It will be a platform for just doing stuff on a car and it not really mattering if I get set back on projects that involve that car.
ANd I will consider the grids...and I like the circuit 10s also. Suggestions are truely welcome...insurance(liability)is going to be cheaper on this teg than a CRX or a 240. I have an interesting driving record...I need cheap insurance...and this car will provide it...for rec use only. It might get driven once or twice a week.
Didnt think 2600lbs was that heavy...my accord weighs 3000
ActiveAero
02-19-2004, 10:37 PM
What do you want to do with the car? That will be very important.
I thought about Rhino lining my floor before, then I realized how thick and heavy that stuff is. Just do like Clint said and actually paint the inside. A painted, yet gutted interior with some nice floor mats (for daily driving) actually looks very nice. Better than dirty carpet and waaaay easier to clean.
I've also read a little on Lexan, the most common variant scratches VERY easily, as in your fingernail. I also have some in car drag videos and at about 80-90mph the glass starts flexing. If I used it I would only do the back hatch. There is however another type of Lexan that is more scratch resistant, but I haven't seen much info beyond that. I assume it is more expensive.
You'll also want 5-6 point harnesses, not four, unless you just plan on autocrossing and the harnesses are only needed to plant you more firmly in the seat.
If you are going all out I would definitely not waste my cash on a cheap suspension setup. My idea and what no one wants to hear ( I know I didn't), learn to drive the fool out of the stock suspension. Trust me you can shave seconds off your lap times by just improving the driver.
If you don't believe this ask Micheal about the guy that has driven and raced a BONE stock 1st gen Integra since the day he bought it from the dealer. He can whoop the shite out of cars that are technically 10 times better just because he knows the car and its "crap" stock suspension so well.
Yeah everyone will say get such and such car. Yes a CRX and a Hatch are of course lighter, but get what you like. Oh and don't take advice from guys that are driving 2,900lb hatchbacks :P :wink:
xamraci
02-19-2004, 10:52 PM
Auto corss mostly. Just a car to have fun working on. Its not a very costly venture and I am going to stay NA. And I can find them for pretty cheap and I dont see many of them around town that are fixed up or even look really nice. It will be sitting most of the time...in the midst of being worked on. I just want a fun car little car to drive around and take to auto-x events and such. and 5-6 pt has been brought to my attention...4 point will work fine for autox though...I have considered the 6pt though. Tegs are sweet cause a most of them have 4 discs...as far as I know...and finding 4disc crx at a good price is hard to find...or ef hatchs. And the teg just captures my full attention. A car I have always wanted to own...and fix up. And the KIRKEY seats are staying! Very light and not expensive...its not a comfort car...is a little car to track out
AadosX
02-20-2004, 12:12 AM
Just spend the money on your accord...
And if you don't like it (too heavy/slow/farty) then sell it and buy something else, like a newer/nicer teg.
xamraci
02-20-2004, 12:42 AM
Just spend the money on your accord...
And if you don't like it (too heavy/slow/farty) then sell it and buy something else, like a newer/nicer teg.
haha, cant risk messing something up on my accord...and it might be slow, and I dont find it farty...I like her and she is staying. And I wont sell her. Newer/nicer? Nipe...my accord is in really good shape and only 98k on a 94. I cant afford a boost mistake or a swap hold up...I have to drive to a job...I cant risk not having a mode of transportation...and I am not giving up my accord...and I would rather have an old teg over a new one...again...insurance plays a HUGE part in this, you car problems are a good example(very unfortunate BTW)...I cant afford two weeks with out a car. I commute to work...I need two cars if I aim to have one that can be out of commission. 250-400 miles a week...yeah...gotta get a second car
AadosX
02-20-2004, 12:50 AM
I survived w/out mine. I see what you mean, but once my car is done I shouldn't have any problems with it at all. I don't know what you mean by boost mistake or whatever... it's not like you're driving down the road and boom, unless you have a ghetto rigged car pushing way more power than you should be. I just don't see what you want to do with your car. I hated my last car because it was an 'in between car'. It would never be THAT nice or fast at all. Sure it was nice, but it wasn't like DAYAM. And sure it wasn't painfully slow (15.7) to most, but that's damn painfully slow to me. I could never have a completely stripped car to drive around, so that's why I'm just doing what I'm doing. And if I was in your situation, and had the two cars you want, then I would ALWAYS drive the fast/ghetto car... because I LOVE driving... simple as that. Everywhere I go, I go fast and enjoy myself... no matter what.
xamraci
02-20-2004, 01:09 AM
haha, I think you are getting the jist of it. I will probably find myself driving the stripped car around more often than my accord...but like mike and his hatch...he has a FAST as shit CIVIC hatch or a nice passat to drive around. Granted my accord is no passat...but she is nice with nice features, cruz control, leather, power everything, and soon to be nice suspension. A fast little car to sput around in and be able to break...is something that would work better...and in terms of the boost mistake...any mishaps that might occur if I boosted my accord...a large list could be compiled but...no need. Its all good bro...
Aight... this is the listing for my new rizide
Teg=1200
Seats-140ea
Cage-400
Belts-200
Headers-300
Intake-100
Rims-500
Tires-350
Suspension(optional)-500-1000
Motor(when needed)-1200-2500
Total-3200-6000
not too bad...
AadosX
02-20-2004, 01:20 AM
Few things, just cause I like to give you a hard time.
1) It's Header, not headers hehe.
2) At least get some Corbeau's... $300 a peice for adjustable ones, even cheaper for non-adjust. www.corbeau.com
3) Do suspension WAAAYYYYYY before wheels/tires!!! And it's $500, not $500-1000.
Oh, and FTR, I'd much rather have your Accord than a Passat, any day.
WiggiE
02-20-2004, 01:47 AM
3) Do suspension WAAAYYYYYY before wheels/tires!!! And it's $500, not $500-1000.
I hope you mean a wheel/tire combo, b/c better tires will decrease his lap times way more than a good suspension setup.
f22b1sedan: If you are going to use the car for auto-x, etc forget the header and intake and spend that extra money on tires or a good suspension setup.
If you go watch Auto-xing sometime you'll see some cars that aren't fast at all in a straight line pull some incredible numbers. The reasons for that are 1) driver, 2) tires, 3) suspension setup, 4) brakes.
AadosX
02-20-2004, 01:51 AM
Yes, he's going to get rims and tires... which costs more.
And yeah, go to www.scca.com and look at the restrictions. If you really want to be serious about auto-x then look at what mods you can have in certain classes. Hell, a stock CRX is one of the easiest cars to win with because of classification. Don't lie to yourself, fast in a straight line is just as important prolly, just as it is for me. I'm just gonna mess around with auto-x, not actually 'compete'. It's all about cruising town tearing it up.
xamraci
02-20-2004, 01:55 AM
f22b1sedan: If you are going to use the car for auto-x, etc forget the header and intake and spend that extra money on tires or a good suspension setup.
If you go watch Auto-xing sometime you'll see some cars that aren't fast at all in a straight line pull some incredible numbers. The reasons for that are 1) driver, 2) tires, 3) suspension setup, 4) brakes.
WERD! I know a little about those things...RIMS &tires are coming first(hoosiers or falken azenas)...along with nice brakes(nissin pads)...Driver prolly needs work :wink: , and suspension...we will see how far that needs to be taken...new shocks are the minimum...134$ for four monroe sensatracs(Thanks Anderson :wink: )Intake and stuff like that is just little tid bits of stuff to have on there...free up a little flow...Here is a HUGE news flash(probably not)I have always been obsessed with cars...but only recently(past year or two)have I been taken in by the import car scene or any type of stock class drag or auto-x. I used to be a Jeep and 4x4 Frat Freak :(
and X! Naw B...its gonna have a V8 :wink: ...haha I have always referred to it with "HEADERS"...hard habit to kick...will do my best, and on the corbeaus..I have been interestedin corbeaus since I owned my cherokee...I like them...options are always there...might go corbeau...all depends on how I feel at the moment of purchase :)
AadosX
02-20-2004, 02:37 AM
hahahaha, 5 smilies!
...just giving you a hard time man. heh
ActiveAero
02-20-2004, 11:26 AM
Don't waster your money on Hoosiers right now. They are true R compounds and will run you around $170 per tire. Oh and you can't drive them on the street at all. Stick with a set of Azenis to learn on. They have great grip and are cheap. Besides if you talk to most hardcore auto-x/road course guys they say to stay on street tires for a while.
Oh and who said you need new rims?
In terms of brakes for the Teg there is only one place you need to know www.cobaltfriction.com He supplies brake pads to 99% of the road racers on Honda-Tech.
Frosty_DUB
02-20-2004, 11:47 AM
GET THAT HATCH FOR 700!!!
xamraci
02-20-2004, 09:07 PM
GET THAT HATCH FOR 700!!!
What hatch...that one needing MUCH work?
Get me a number clint...
and
active...
I dont need new rims :D , wouldnt be bad though...prolly run steelies for a while...hard to find 14" performance tires somtimes, can get azenas though...and I understand about the hoosiers not runnin on the street...I didnt know they couldnt be street driven, and MUCH thanks for the LINK to the brakes
1 Bad 68
02-20-2004, 09:38 PM
I got my teg for sale $2850.
xamraci
02-20-2004, 09:43 PM
I got my teg for sale $2850.
I havent got 2850, but if its around in 6 months...I might have that money then...
1 Bad 68
02-21-2004, 02:02 AM
You never know with me, I could sell it tomorrow, or have it next year. The car I'm going to be purchasing to take over duties of DD'ing won't be available till April 1st. I'm also looking for another '68 Firebird.
AadosX
02-22-2004, 06:36 PM
1) I don't know what you want out of your tires, but you can drive drag radials on the streets.. though I wouldn't recommend it. Azenis are very nice.
2) What are those shocks? Are they adjustable? Any more info on them? Even KYG GR-2's are only like $250 and that's for a name brand company.
ActiveAero
02-22-2004, 09:39 PM
1) I don't know what you want out of your tires, but you can drive drag radials on the streets.. though I wouldn't recommend it. Azenis are very nice.
2) What are those shocks? Are they adjustable? Any more info on them? Even KYG GR-2's are only like $250 and that's for a name brand company.
I think he's talking about Hoosier R compound road race/auto-x tires. Either way bad idea on the street. They won't last but maybe a few thousand miles and if it ever rains you will die.
I wouldn't go with KYB GR-2's. More of a replacement shock and won't handle any spring rates worthy of a car that is going to see any track time.
AadosX
02-22-2004, 09:47 PM
I gotcha, I never looked into them, just brought them up because my friend has them on his car. Granted he doesn't drive spirited at all, just wanted to lower it.
Hell, I only get like 7-8k miles out of normal tires myself heh.
xamraci
02-23-2004, 01:30 PM
The monroe sensatrac shocks are more or less a replacement shock like the KYB G2. I have them on my accord to take the place of my shit ass OEM shocks(which had never been replaced). A nice suspension is going to cost out the ass. 500-1000 would be an estimate worth qouting. and yes I was talking about the hoosier r compounds...I will probably go with the Falkens and the car wont be driven that often(once, maybe twice a week). It will be a project car to take to auto-x events and piddle with when time and money permit. The accord is on its final stages of being complete...two more rotors for the rear and another set of nissin brake pads and the car will be complete for all its needed(my DD).
vBulletin v3.5.0, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.