Pimp Supra

[phillyd]

Expensive, but fly.

http://www.speedforsale.com/viewcar.php?vid=160

[AeRo]

Pimp indeed, but our SRT's can beat it no problem

[Obike]

Pimp indeed, but our SRT's can beat it no problem

Beat 'em on the race to the junkyard?

[Jon|Hazan]

Pimp indeed, but our SRT's can beat it no problem
lmao

[2Fast4Radar]

I've always hated that front end combo........ otherwise it's a super nice car. Won show-n-shine and makes 700rwhp.

[easy2speed]

$180,000+ Invested! :rolleyes: He invested $120,000 the wrong way. I hate the front end, but the rest is decent if that. :bang:

[VDUBNDizzy]

That car used to sit up at DynoLab for a long time.

[Alex]

Yeah that front end ain't too pretty. Ditto on the hood scoop. Otherwise it's cool except for the $180k invested part.

[1.8t]

1. Make the exterior stock
2. Make the interior stock
3. ?????
4. Profit

[phillyd]

$180,000+ Invested! :rolleyes: He invested $120,000 the wrong way. I hate the front end, but the rest is decent if that. :bang:


My thoughts exactly. :O

[Nstig8r]

You could do a WAAAAYY nicer, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYY faster supra than that for 180K....

This guy got dryassraped by Powerhouse... Not the first time I have/heard or seen that.

[2Fast4Radar]

You could do a WAAAAYY nicerYou could, but he didn't, because he was building his car.

[SK VR4]

i think it looks nice.

Those are some big brakes!

[Nstig8r]

Those are some big brakes!

Same size as mine, but a cheaper, crappier setup. They just look big because he only has 18" wheels...

[Jess]

brotha needs some dub deuces on that whip!

[VR4Rob]

I'd hit it

[adam p]

If I had 120k my SUpra would be so much better than that.

Let's play a game - what would your 120k supra look like? I'd have the bomex front bumper, no hoodscoop, wider fenders (but STOCK looking) and no wing. Fantastic gunmetal paint job slammed on 19in BBS LMs (magnesium silver face w/ polished lip and red centercaps). It'd also have similar power becaues I would be focusing on power band!

[Inspector]

Let's play a game - what would your 120k supra look like?

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6804/street806gp.jpg

never been into body kits and all that crap.. i prefer a simplistic look, understated, yet still mean as hell!

edit: i definitely didn't spend all 120k... and would NEVER on a SUPRA.

[Swine]

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6804/street806gp.jpg



.
:dropjaw: :nutonit:

[AeRo]

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4485/supraff8yg.th.jpg (http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=supraff8yg.jpg)

[Drew]

70K? I'd just take a Z06 with a few mods and be done with it.


This is probably my fav supra.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fastredponycar/Random%20Cars/8s510fr_edit.jpg

[SK VR4]

http://www.scandalousracing.com/images/interior/whitesupra.gif

[SK VR4]

Same size as mine

cheaper, crappier

so what are you saying?

ONLY 18s" This isnt bling city dude, get over yourself. :cripple:

[Nstig8r]

so what are you saying?

ONLY 18s" This isnt bling city dude, get over yourself. :cripple:

I never said anything about having to have 19's or bigger.... the brakes just look bigger because it is a smaller wheel. You do have to have at LEAST 18" wheels for a 14" setup.

And as for Stoptech vs. Alcon, do some research before you say the Stoptechs are better. I had Stoptech 13" before going to the 14" Alcon setup... There is an incredible difference in feel, and more importantly the quality of the components. If you ask anyone who has had them, the Stoptechs calipers need pretty much a complete rebuild for every rotor change... And rotor changes on Stoptechs come about twice as often as on Alcons.

[Nstig8r]

BTW, Walsers car gets my stamp of approval... :thumbsup:

http://store5.yimg.com/I/turboimports_1732_5711231

[easy2speed]

That's S.W.'s old car. The Walser Supra had graphite wheels and HKS 2835GT's.
http://store5.yimg.com/I/turboimports_1732_5910468

[Nstig8r]

Here is a proven faster Supra for sale on eBay.... (Auto though) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4574824399)

[easy2speed]

"The car made 1520 rhwp @ 59psi of boost on a Mustang chassis dyno..." :D

[SK VR4]

I never said anything about having to have 19's or bigger.... the brakes just look bigger because it is a smaller wheel. You do have to have at LEAST 18" wheels for a 14" setup.

And as for Stoptech vs. Alcon, do some research before you say the Stoptechs are better. I had Stoptech 13" before going to the 14" Alcon setup... There is an incredible difference in feel, and more importantly the quality of the components. If you ask anyone who has had them, the Stoptechs calipers need pretty much a complete rebuild for every rotor change... And rotor changes on Stoptechs come about twice as often as on Alcons.


I know small wheels make brakes look bigger. Take my brakes [2nd gen vr4] for example, same as robs. 12.36" rotors, will not fit under my stock 17" wheels without trimming the caliper. (ive had to do it) They just barely clear rob's 17s. But, they have more piston area than Alcon, Porsche reds, Porsche blacks and AP Racing's setups. As a matter of fact, the only conventional material setup I can find with more piston area is the Brembo F50 setup.

I had big blacks under 18s on my 964, and it doesnt take a genious to figure out that it stopped pretty well. I can't afford to road race right now, But If i do i'd look into a ceramic composite setup for my VR4 which would be lightened a lot. As a GT car with already incredible brakes, it's not meant for tons and tons of braking, but it probably could. Why on earth did you need 14" rotors?

I never said stoptechs are better, I was just picking at your post. :meatwad:

[SK VR4]

I have over $150,000 invested in this car. I expect to not recovery all of these spent funds,

BS, it's gotta be fake with that kind of spelling.

[VR4Rob]

Why on earth did you need 14" rotors?

http://www.speedforsale.com/getimg.php?src=cars/pic47783811.jpg
You cant see behind the wheel... its just ROTOROTOROTOR, which is pimp on an entirely new level.

[gangsta coupe]

not my favorite but under 120
http://autospies.com/images/uploads/medium/99fer.jpg

[SK VR4]

I agree. Yours are kinda like that, but in a baby rotor (pff, 12.6 :rolleyes: ) way. ;)

[phillyd]

this has got to be the longest thread I ever strated....owned b1tch3$

:partydanc

I think the original supra I posted kind of (in a subtle) looks like a SS Camaro...IMO


EDIT: well at least from the front.^

[SK VR4]

http://www.3si.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=43464

6 piston AP Racing setup. 13.98" rotors but a step down in total piston area from stock 2721 mm^2 to 2511 mm^2 [4.22"^2 -> 3.89"^2]; saving grace is a total brake pad area is actually 11.8 (holy shit) compared to stock 8.0 cm^2. For some reason I dunno if the combination of less piston and more pad is even a good thing. ;)

[Nstig8r]

I guess you guys need a brief education in brakes...

Unless you are going to change the master cylinder AND the proportioning out, you should ALWAYS keep the caliper piston area the same as the stock piston area. Otherwise, you will throw off the bias of the cars braking. The bias of the brakes has to do with the weight balance of the car. Unless you are doing crazy motor swaps and/or changing the front to back balance of the car, you should stick with the stock bias setup for the master cylinder and proportioning valve.

Any braking kit that does not take the stock piston area into consideration is NOT designed specifically for that car. The car may feel like it has better brakes, but if you were to test it verses a stock car you will find that the stock car usually outperforms it. (Car and Driver did this a few years back)

As for decreasing the braking distance, it is VERY hard to beat a stock setup on a modern car for one stop. Pretty much ANY car made today can lock its brakes from (almost) any speed when the brakes are at normal operating temperatures. This is a function of traction. Changing to a sticker tire can improve your braking distances, but putting on big brakes barely makes a difference if there are no other changes to the car for ONE stop.

Where big brakes DO make a difference is in the repeatability of stops. A stock system is usually TOAST after one HARD braking from 100-60mph. I used to think my Stoptechs were good, until someone told me to try a test ( stopping from 100-60mph multiple times). The stock car will do this once, and then fade sets in. The Stoptechs would begin to fade after 3-4 stops. So far, with my Alcon setup, I have done the same test 9 times with BARELY any fade.

The biggest factor between the quality of the caliper has to deal with the stiffness of the caliper, and its resistance to "flex" apart while the pistons are pushing on the rotor. The Stoptechs are cast as a single piece, and then cut apart so the pistons can be machined, and then bolted back together. While they do have a bridge over the pads to try to "restiffen" the caliper, they will never be as strong as a one-piece (monobloc) caliper. The Alcons are monobloc... essentially they are cast as one piece and then a TRICK 6-axis CNC mill machines the pistons out.

One test that will be coming out in a future issue of a MAJOR car magazine has a car like mine with the same brake setup. The car did have a sticky, 140 treadwear tire, but it was able to manage a 130-0 stop in 461 feet. If that car were to do a 80-0 stop verses a stock car with the same tires, the results would be very similar. Once you start stopping from higher speeds (100mph+), the big brakes do make a HUGE difference, simply because the stock setup starts to overheat (fade) quickly at such high speeds.

As for 14" (we actually even have a 14.5" kit for sale) vs. 13", it all has to do with mechanical advantage. The further away from the center of the hub, the less force it takes to stop a rotating mass. Likewise, our 14.5" brake kits are actually LIGHTER than the 13" kits. This is because you can have more rotor area and time for the brake pad to be cooled after the pad passes over it. With the larger rotors, the thickness of the "plates" on the rotors is thinner, and there is more air gap (i.e. - cooling) between the plates of the rotor.

I can go on and on, if you guys like. :D I am facinated by brakes. One last thing to mention, brake pads. When it comes to performance brake pads (no, I am not talking about Autozones Duralast Gold Pads), choosing one simply depends on what operating temparature the brakes will be running at AND the friction coefficent of the pad. A race pad has a higher friction coefficent than a street pad, but it will never get to temperature on the street. A good street pad with lower friction will outperform it. Of course, typically the pads that have a lower (street) temparature operating range and a high friction coefficent are expensive, and usually don't last very long. Brake pads are all about a compromise of pad life vs. pad performance with operating temperature thrown in the mix...

And no, I am not an engineer, I just stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.... :thumbsup:

[1.8t]

Stallown3d.

[WiggiE]

Nice writeup Tom.

Only thing you didn't mention about brakes was the reason that big brakes allow repeatability of high speed stops. It has mostly to do with having more "mass" on the rotor, which in turn allows it to soak up more heat during a stop.

For those of you that haven't taken physics, a braking systems job is only to turn rotational inertia into heat, which is soaked up by the rotors.

[Veedubtrek]

I think I'd take the $120k plus a loan for $60k and buy this:

Pure sex part 1 (http://www.auto-sfondi-desktop.com/Wallpapers_Ferrari_/Ferrari-360-Modena/Ferrari-360-Modena-02/Ferrari-360-Modena-02_800.jpg)

Pure sex part 2 (http://www.wallpaper.net.au/wallpaper/automotive/Ferrari%20360%20Modena%202%20-%201024x768.jpg)

Pure sex part 3 (http://www.auto-sfondi-desktop.com/Wallpapers_Ferrari_/Ferrari-360-Modena/Ferrari-360-Modena-03/Ferrari-360-Modena-03_800.jpg)

and definately in that same color :cheers:

[1.8t]

:cheers:

[PrimeredHatch]

I think I'd take the $120k plus a loan for $60k and buy this:

Waste of 180 grand part 1 (http://www.auto-sfondi-desktop.com/Wallpapers_Ferrari_/Ferrari-360-Modena/Ferrari-360-Modena-02/Ferrari-360-Modena-02_800.jpg)

Waste of 180 grand part 2 (http://www.wallpaper.net.au/wallpaper/automotive/Ferrari%20360%20Modena%202%20-%201024x768.jpg)

Waste of 180 grand part 3 (http://www.auto-sfondi-desktop.com/Wallpapers_Ferrari_/Ferrari-360-Modena/Ferrari-360-Modena-03/Ferrari-360-Modena-03_800.jpg)


fiXt

[Veedubtrek]

fiXt

Yeah yeah yeah... that car is still one fine piece of ass that I would definately make love to :D ...for 180 grand that is

[Veedubtrek]

Fine how about this? This is by far my favorite Supra:

http://superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0302_SUPR_LEAD_z.jpg

http://superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0302_SUPR_5_z.jpg

MINUS THE STICKERS!!!!

[Nstig8r]

Nice writeup Tom.

Only thing you didn't mention about brakes was the reason that big brakes allow repeatability of high speed stops. It has mostly to do with having more "mass" on the rotor, which in turn allows it to soak up more heat during a stop.

For those of you that haven't taken physics, a braking systems job is only to turn rotational inertia into heat, which is soaked up by the rotors.

Well, yeah, big brake kit rotor does have more mass than a stock setup, but it is not the only thing... Bigger is not always more mass(heavier)... like I was saying:

Likewise, our 14.5" brake kits are actually LIGHTER than the 13" kits. This is because you can have more rotor area and time for the brake pad to be cooled after the pad passes over it. With the larger rotors, the thickness of the "plates" on the rotors is thinner, and there is more air gap (i.e. - cooling) between the plates of the rotor.

The larger rotor can actually be lighter because the plates are thinner and there is more air gap between the plates (where the vaning on a vented rotor is)... The bigger increased surface area of the rotor face combined with the larger air gap inside the rotor keep it at about the same operating temperature as a smaller rotor with thicker plates and a smaller air gap. Make sense?

While a 14.5" kit is lighter than a 13" kit, which is good for unsprung weight, it still creates more rotational mass that is further away from the center of the hub. All in all, I would say that 75% of the big brake kits out there are not cutting edge technology, and are not designed SPECIFICALLY for a certian car, but rather just someone making a bigger caliper/rotor fit on the car.

Don't get me started on cross-drilled rotors... I KNOW production Porsches come with them, but cross-drilling is 1970's technology... There have been some big advancements in slotting in the last 3-4 years though. :cheers:

[Zx RaTeD]

Nice writeup Tom.

Only thing you didn't mention about brakes was the reason that big brakes allow repeatability of high speed stops...

Nah, I'm pretty sure he hit that one too. ; )

[WiggiE]

like I was saying:
I missed that part, my reading comprehension ownz me. :cripple:

[SK VR4]

The larger rotor can actually be lighter because the plates are thinner and there is more air gap between the plates (where the vaning on a vented rotor is)... The bigger increased surface area of the rotor face combined with the larger air gap inside the rotor keep it at about the same operating temperature as a smaller rotor with thicker plates and a smaller air gap. Make sense?



Did you just reply to your own post? LOFL! :eek:

Im glad you have a super firm grasp on braking... as far as selling a kit goes. Theres def. more science and math that goes into it that I think you've done, but that's something im sure youre aware of. Dont get all high and mighty on me please, I know my stuff pretty well. :)

Didn't I say the AP kit has less piston area? Yeah, and more pad area which doesnt ring good bells in my book. What does is similiar piston area and bigger pads, and if I feel giddy, bigger rotors. I do not like the AP kit. I'd like a Brembo kit to be honest; with holes in the rotors, not slots. I know bigger rotor = mechanical advantage, duh, that's torque. :P

Who are you Instig8r? What do you drive and when you say 'we' [as in "we sell..."] who are you reffering to? peice out!

I think my fave supra right now is the AAP car. :O

[SK VR4]

Don't get me started on cross-drilled rotors... I KNOW production Porsches come with them, but cross-drilling is 1970's technology... There have been some big advancements in slotting in the last 3-4 years though. :cheers:


I really really really really would like to 'get you started' on drilled rotors. Not to instig8 (LOL) but to find out how much more you know than those silly engineers at Porsche. (what losers!) Spill the beans, I can take it!

[1 Bad 68]

http://www.scandalousracing.com/images/interior/whitesupra.gif

haha, theres my boy!

[I want something fast]

Now this is based on my limited knowledge, but I think I can answer this.

Cross drilling was a method started by porsche in the mid to late 1970's as a way to vent fresh organic compouned brake pads after being swapped on thei Le-Mans cars. Based on the reading I have done and the first hand experience crossdrilling was picked up by everyone else because they thought it was an effective cooling method but instead it's real reasons were based upon the need to evacuate the gasses that build behind the pad and the rotors due to breaking new organic compound pads in.

People like the way they looked and so they follows...kinda like carbon fiber.

With technology now a days having crossdrilled rotors really only does one thing and that is look good. In actuality it is decreasing your effective surface area in which you pad can grab the rotor, and stop. Not to mention that under heavy braking loads they have a tendency to develop stress cracks around the cross drillings due to heat expansion, and rapid cooling.

That is what I know, and so it is up for review by the people who know more.

The first question I asked when I hung out with the FSAE team was why they didn't use cross drilled rotors...and Zorn shit himself and told me to "go make gussets noob"...and I did(I was owned).

[I want something fast]

For 180 K I could build a car that would run low 6's and would have enough money left over to buy a new Z06.

[SK VR4]

for 180K i'd buy a primer civic hatchback, insure it and fill up the tank with 87 octane, buy some stobe lights and a huge stereo, and spend the other $179,280 on midget strippers, pez and alcohol. And some licorice.

[VR4Rob]

for 180K i'd buy a primer civic hatchback, insure it and fill up the tank with 87 octane, buy some stobe lights and a huge stereo, and spend the other $179,280 on midget strippers, pez and alcohol. And some licorice.
You forgot pez DISPENSERS... fool

[SK VR4]

heck no dude, i've got like 54 of them! I even have a battery powered electric one that serves as a belt buckle if one so chooses!!!! Don't talk to me about dispensing pez, mr buffalo helicopter. :rolleyes:

[1.8t]

Now this is based on my limited knowledge, but I think I can answer this.

Cross drilling was a method started by porsche in the mid to late 1970's as a way to vent fresh organic compouned brake pads after being swapped on thei Le-Mans cars. Based on the reading I have done and the first hand experience crossdrilling was picked up by everyone else because they thought it was an effective cooling method but instead it's real reasons were based upon the need to evacuate the gasses that build behind the pad and the rotors due to breaking new organic compound pads in.

People like the way they looked and so they follows...kinda like carbon fiber.

With technology now a days having crossdrilled rotors really only does one thing and that is look good. In actuality it is decreasing your effective surface area in which you pad can grab the rotor, and stop. Not to mention that under heavy braking loads they have a tendency to develop stress cracks around the cross drillings due to heat expansion, and rapid cooling.

That is what I know, and so it is up for review by the people who know more.

The first question I asked when I hung out with the FSAE team was why they didn't use cross drilled rotors...and Zorn shit himself and told me to "go make gussets noob"...and I did(I was owned).


Bingo. How many F1 cars do you see w/ cross drilled rotors SK?? All cross drilled's do today are look bling and cause premature failure from cracking. Oh, they may save marginal weight that would be overshadowed by less surface area. With todays tech. when it comes to materials, you can purchase brake pads that will prevent gases from building up between the pad and the rotor therefore eliminating the need for crossdrilling and slotting IMO.

[SK VR4]

F1 cars have rotors made from silicone carbide... i'd like to see you try to drill a hole through that. :D

plus, i never said i preferred drilled. ;)

[Nstig8r]

Did you just reply to your own post? LOFL! :eek:

No, I was trying to re-explain my point about why some bigger rotors actually have less mass... You can compare the text, it is different.

Who are you Instig8r? What do you drive and when you say 'we' [as in "we sell..."] who are you reffering to? peice out!


I have been around a lot longer than most anyone else on this board that I know of and "we" is the company I work for. No, we do not sell anything for VR4's.

[Nstig8r]

plus, i never said i preferred drilled. ;)

*scratching head*


I'd like a Brembo kit to be honest; with holes in the rotors, not slots.

[SK VR4]

No, I was trying to re-explain my point about why some bigger rotors actually have less mass... You can compare the text, it is different.


I fully understand the concept of 'density'. :)

I have been around a lot longer than most anyone else on this board that I know of and "we" is the company I work for. No, we do not sell anything for VR4's.

Don't worry, noone makes stuff for VR4s. That's not a problem, though. I can make it myself. :) You still didn't answer my question, but I think I know what company it is. :cheers:

*scratching head*

There's more than one way to make a hole... :meatwad:

[Nstig8r]

I fully understand the concept of 'density'. :)


It has nothing to do with density. The materials are the same. I think there is another density problem, and it doesn't deal with brake rotors...

[1.8t]

hahhahahahah

[SK VR4]

wow, your petty insults have impressed me. Oh, so thoroughly. U = awesome.

[Nstig8r]

wow, your petty insults have impressed me. Oh, so thoroughly. U = awesome.

You started it assmunch... Be careful who you fuck with on a forum. :)

[SK VR4]

i never insulted you sir. why should i be careful? Are you going to e-beat me up? :O

[VR4Rob]

A winner is you (guys)

[VDUBNDizzy]

You started it assmunch... Be careful who you fuck with on a forum. :)

Yay. Professionalism at it's finest. Thanks for reminding me why I don't do business with your company.

[phillyd]

Look what I started... :partydanc

[Nstig8r]

Yay. Professionalism at it's finest. Thanks for reminding me why I don't do business with your company.

Professionalism?? Who am I here posting as?? I am not trying to sell anything to anyone here... Have I EVER said where I work on these forums?? Do I instantly have to ALWAYS be associated with where I work?? Ask Matt Harris, Michael, Greyson, Frank, etc... I'm not an ass, unless someone is being an ass to me.

Adam, you don't know this, but we have a LOT of good mutual friends in ATL... They seem to think that we would probably get along well together. I went to lunch with them a month or so ago. I was hoping to see you sometime to formally introduce myself, but you never go to any of the meetings. All that I am asking is for you not to categorize me until you know me...

[Nstig8r]

A winner is you (guys)
Yeah, Yeah.... I'll go ahead and post it about myself.....


http://www.raiderfans.net/forum/gallery/data/500/376arguing_over_the_internet.jpg

I am about to leave on vacation for 10 days (Alaska!!), so lord knows what is going to be said about me..... :rolleyes:

[VDUBNDizzy]

Professionalism?? Who am I here posting as?? I am not trying to sell anything to anyone here... Have I EVER said where I work on these forums?? Do I instantly have to ALWAYS be associated with where I work?? Ask Matt Harris, Michael, Greyson, Frank, etc... I'm not an ass, unless someone is being an ass to me.

Adam, you don't know this, but we have a LOT of good mutual friends in ATL... They seem to think that we would probably get along well together. I went to lunch with them a month or so ago. I was hoping to see you sometime to formally introduce myself, but you never go to any of the meetings. All that I am asking is for you not to categorize me until you know me...

You yourself said "WE" have a 14.5" kit available. And yes, when you are an employee at a company with such a presence, regardless of whether you like it or not, you are associated with the company. I was at a meet a few weeks ago, and you were there. Ben was telling me about how you guys warned him about me. Then you showed up and he never got out from under you wing. Anyways, Sean wasn't "arguing". It was a discussion til you called him assmunch. And yes, I know we have mutual friends. Practice what you preach though, don't categorize me either because you don't know me just like I don't know you.

[Jess]

This thread is tuning in to a fucking tampon commercial.

[SK VR4]

yeah, don't go off saying "we" then try to disassociate yourself from who "we" stands for! That's all I ask. I could say "I" as in me or my 'company' through which Im sure I could get the same brake setup as you fellas down the road. "I" as in me, however, don't mention that. This is getting confusing, so why don't you just make fun of my non-working car and how fat it is, and get it over with. :P You can finish off with a sharp insult like "You think you're so cool, but you're not; I know because I'm ron jeremy's brother, and HE is cool." or something. That would be sweet. :meatwad: