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View Full Version : Pictures from twin turbo conversion

TylerW
04-04-2007, 01:19 AM
Pictures are in chronological order:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300001-3.jpg
The first step was to remove the front bumper, which took awhile because there are so many hidden bolts.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300002-2.jpg
I decided to remove the water housing first, which involved removing the intake piping. I wanted to drain the radiator to avoid making a big mess, but it turned out frivolous since making a mess was inevitable.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300003-3.jpg
Picture of the housing.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300004-1.jpg
The housing removed.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300005-2.jpg
A picture of the n/a front manifold. I also removed the alternator and relocated the compressor to make way for room to remove the n/a oil housing. I then removed both n/a manifolds and replaced them with the tt manifolds and then the turbos.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300006-2.jpg
Picture of the damage at that point. I removed the injectors to replace them with peak and hold TT injectors, which required me to wire resistors for each injector harness since the n/a injectors are saturated. I used ~4.6 ohm resistors for the job.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300008-1.jpg
A picture of the injector harnesses after the resistors were soldered in.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300009.jpg
For some reason the idiots at Mitsubishi decided to make the body a little different for n/a cars, so I had to hack at the body to make room for the driver's side intercooler.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300010.jpg
After hacking. Unfortunately, I also accidentally hacked into a huge wiring harness, even after double and triple checking to ensure I wasn't cutting into anything else. Apparently it was hidden near the headlight bucket. Pics of the carnage are below.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300015.jpg
Ouch. Rewiring will be hard since I made the cut right before the wires split off, so I don't have much wire to work with. But I'll manage with some help from a master electrician (Dad).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300013-1.jpg
For some reason the water line for the front turbo was getting running into the area where my Power Transistor Unit normally sits. To get around this I simply put some slack in the rubber water lines I bought and routed around it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300011-1.jpg
The conversion also requires you to weld bungs from a tt oil pan onto the n/a pan. The bolt pattern and overall outline is different for the tt pan so it cannot be bolted on directly. Instead of welding the bungs on, I bought a spare return line so I could weld the flanges on instead of buying an entire pan. This picture shows my pretty bottom end and my tt oil housing modified with some Earl's fittings to work with a Derale cooler setup I decided to create (instead of buying the TT oil cooler).

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/S5300012-1.jpg
And this is how it sits currently. The person I bought my intercooler pipes from didn't send me one of the intercooler pipes I need so I have to figure out what I'm going to do about that. I need to install the TT fuel pump, the front and rear exhaust fittings/precats, downpipe, tt intake plenum, various vacuum lines, boost gauge, radiator, and ECU before I can start it. I hope to have the majority of it done this Friday so I can start it on Saturday and work out any bugs/leaks. I hope it's all worth it!
VR4Rob
04-04-2007, 01:27 AM
Nice progress so far. Good luck with that rear precat, it may be easier to pull the rear turbo, bolt the precat to it, then reinstall. I had no idea you had to make that modification to make the TT injectors work, thats nuts.
TylerW
04-04-2007, 01:37 AM
Nice progress so far. Good luck with that rear precat, it may be easier to pull the rear turbo, bolt the precat to it, then reinstall. I had no idea you had to make that modification to make the TT injectors work, thats nuts.

Yes, the rear precat is being a bitch. I tried installing it Monday and just gave up after throwing around a few wrenches (thank God their drop FORGED!!!). Getting the rear turbo in there was hard enough. I'll do my typical weaseling and mimicry of Japanese hands to get it in there somehow.
ActiveAero
04-04-2007, 01:48 AM
Good luck. That motor gives me chills just looking at it (I have a 94 SL that I've pulled the heads off of back when I was a complete newb). I can't imagine trying to put turbos on that thing.
xamraci
04-04-2007, 01:48 AM
let me know what piping you are missing...I have some extra shit at the shop from my turbo project...some DSM piping and stuff...I am sure we can make something work if need be...if it helps...just let me know Buddy
IronMonkey
04-04-2007, 01:51 AM
Yes...does look like complete pain to work on. How much power can the NA motor take?
TylerW
04-04-2007, 02:02 AM
Yes...does look like complete pain to work on. How much power can the NA motor take?

They are basically the same motor. The only difference is the compression ratio (10:1 for the n/a, 8:1 for the turbo, so I won't be running anything more than 10 psi on pump) and most TT blocks are 4 bolt mains whereas the n/a is a 2 bolt.

Brock - After I got through working on the car Thursday, I swore to myself the next car I modded would be domestic. I almost made an April Fools thread exclaiming that I was selling my car and buying a fox body stang, but I didn't want to jinx myself. :D

Nick - are they hard pipes? I'd prefer soft but if you have some couplers that may help. I'll let you know.
VR4Rob
04-04-2007, 02:16 AM
Bah, they really are not that bad to work on. There's just a lot of... stuff :D
VR4Dani
04-04-2007, 02:24 AM
Tyler your progress looks exciting! I'm really proud of you and I can only imagine how you feel because I know this has been a long time coming and you're ready for boost :steering:

Pressuretestpressuretestpressuretest :thumbsup:
TylerW
04-04-2007, 03:22 AM
Tyler your progress looks exciting! I'm really proud of you and I can only imagine how you feel because I know this has been a long time coming and you're ready for boost :steering:

Pressuretestpressuretestpressuretest :thumbsup:

Thanks. I'm looking into building my own pressure tester now.
Grider
04-04-2007, 09:16 AM
Bah, they really are not that bad to work on. There's just a lot of... stuff :D

20 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound sack.
VR4Rob
04-04-2007, 12:09 PM
Thanks. I'm looking into building my own pressure tester now.
They're easy to build, I've made 2. We can make a trip to home depot if you like :D
BlueBoostedTibby
04-04-2007, 01:23 PM
wow. mad props for another turbo conversion, even better TT. I know thats a bitch to do. Oh and I shed a tear when I saw the hacked wiring harness.
dixond
04-04-2007, 06:15 PM
Oh and I shed a tear when I saw the hacked wiring harness.

.... if you onnnnnly knew.
Grider
04-04-2007, 07:03 PM
.... if you onnnnnly knew.

teeheee
Swine
04-04-2007, 07:53 PM
looking good.:)
TylerW
04-09-2007, 02:10 PM
Update time.

Everything on the car is ready and waiting for the oil pan. Dad wasn't able to do anything on it this week because he's been uber busy with work and filling out papers since his Reserve unit has been activated, so he might be overseas in a month. :( But he did drill one of the holes in the pan for me before I left. I suppose he'll drill the other one some time today so he can send the pan and the flanges out to be welded. After that, I just have to install the oil pan and everything else I took off to get to it and the car will be ready to start.

Pics:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/oilcooler.jpg
My custom oil cooler setup. I installed it right in front of the condenser.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/egrblockoffs.jpg
Instead of paying ~$50 for EGR blockoff plates for my intake plenum, I decided to make my own. There was some aluminum laying around in the garage so I measured the dimensions of the first port and drew the plate on the aluminum. The second was much easier since I had a gasket to trace.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/tylerw53/enginebay.jpg
This is the motor as it sits. I have the radiator and a couple of intercooler pipes sitting out at the moment just to make it easier to move around in the engine bay. As you can see, I have installed all the vacuum lines and capped the vacuum ports I didn't use. A helicoil in one of the threads for my oil housing failed somehow, but it can be easily replaced 2 weeks from now when I go back down to finish up.
A418t81
04-09-2007, 05:54 PM
Cool man, looks very nice. I bet its going to make some pretty decent power with the compression being that much higher. Are the cams confirmed the same as well?
TylerW
04-09-2007, 06:46 PM
The cam profiles are slightly different, as are the port designs for the heads, but it doesn't make much of a difference.

I plan on eventually running 12-13 psi on pump gas with alky. Should push me in the range of 370-400 crank with a couple of other BPUs. I won't bench race too much before the car runs though. :D
Swine
04-09-2007, 11:41 PM
The cam profiles are slightly different, as are the port designs for the heads, but it doesn't make much of a difference.

I plan on eventually running 12-13 psi on pump gas with alky. Should push me in the range of 370-400 crank with a couple of other BPUs. I won't bench race too much before the car runs though. :D

Sooo 330-340whp?
Obike
04-10-2007, 09:33 AM
Sooo 330-340whp?
No, that's the tC. 0-60 in 8mos baby.

Congrats on the progress so far Tyler!
TylerW
04-10-2007, 10:33 AM
Sooo 330-340whp?

Eh, probably not quite. I expect the ATX to have a little more drivetrain loss. Probably more in the 300-310whp range assuming a 23% loss. That's based off of stock dyno numbers from ATX cars. 222 crank hp stock, and most ATX's dyno around 165-170whp.

Ben - thanks. As long as it starts and drives I'll be satisfied.